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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.